The Beginning The Donor Floorpans Wiring and Interior
Cutting out the rust Heater channels and support rails Brakes Reassembly
The motor runs! Paint Prep Paint Top
August, 2003 I'd bought all the parts for doing the complete brake job at the Manassas Bug Out in the spring. It was pretty hot this summer, what with vacation, and the dumb yardwork, I didn't get much work done on the car in awhile. When I got some time, I took a break from welding and turned to the brakes. Here is a front brake after taking the drum off.
I painted the backing plate then installed the new brake parts. I actually re-used the old linings as they were practically new, and I figured they'd worn the drums so I kept them. (And, the old guy who sold me the new brakes gave me two sets of back brake linings. The holes that accept the springs are different...)
This shows the top of the front end, and the new brake lines. Bending those metal lines is a bitch, use those tube bender spring things so they don't kink. I went to a dual circuit master cylinder too, that's the dual reservoir in the pic I installed so i could test the transmission. Figured if I got the car going, I'd need it to stop...
September
Here's another picture of the front brake lines and the master cylinder. I only have one pressure switch, so I have an old line that is crimped to hold pressure.
Here are the new rear brake lines. I haven't done the wheels yet as I can't get the drums off. I've broken two breaker bars, so I'm stuck until I can break those loose. Pain in the neck!

January, 2004 Ultimately with the assistance of my engineer minded brother, we put an old lawnmower blade through the wheel wedging the blade against the spring plate to keep the wheel from moving. Then, after a liberal bath in WD-40 I held the blade while Tom used an old Unimog solid steel hex 36mm wrench and a 6' pipe as a cheater, to break the rear wheel nut loose. We (he) figured there was about 800 lbs of torque on those nuts!
February 2004 The weather broke and warmed up enough for me to get back out to the garage. I installed the new emergency brake cables and rebuilt the rear brakes. These are German cables (re: pricey) and included the rubber section between the backing plate and the pan. There is a bolt on the back of the backing plate that screws into a captive nut on the front of the backing plate that holds the rubber "bracket" of the cable that escaped my attention for a while. Be sure you attend to that or you'll never get those devils in right!
A detail of the e-brake handle where the cables are attached. I sanded and cleaned up the handle and the associated hardware. Both the Haynes and the Bentley manual have good diagrams and descriptions of this. I painted the handle but it wasn't drying fast enough. I also wanted that paint to be sealed well as it gets lots of wear, so when the B&C went out on an errand, I baked the newly painted handle in the oven. It only smells a little, I can hardly notice, but she still complained a little! The cables are very tight but I expect there will be some adjusting of these nuts once they break in a little.
The completed left rear brake, minus the drum. New wheel cylinder, new shoes, new e-brake cable, new adjusting stars, and new keepers. Getting the drums back on was a bitch! Even adjusted all the way down, the drums were very tight going back on. I suppose they'll wear in and become easier to turn. I was hesitant to grind down the new brake shoes, but I may go back and do something as they take some muscle to turn. I hope the 1300 will be able to turn them!

So the brakes are done. Now, its just a matter of finding a '67 brake fluid reservoir that will fit up in the spare tire well like the '66 but that has 2 outlets for the upgraded dual master cylinder. Please mail it to me if you have one laying around.
May 8, 2005
I finally decided how to manage this cylinder dilemma. I decided to use the later dual circuit reservoir in the original location, sort-of. I drilled a hole for the second outlet, then generally fit it into the original spot, adding a screw to hold it down.
Next I routed the hoses under the tie rods, welded a hold down strip to the framehead and attached the hoses to the master cylinder.

My son and I added fluid, began bleeding the brakes and I noticed a leak under the car. The brake line between the crossover and the left rear line would not seat well enough to seal the line causing the leak. I took this line from the donor car, tied everything together and finished bleeding the brakes. They are still low, but I think that's due to the shoes needing adjustment. In any case, another milestone accomplished in that the brakes are finished!